Growing garlic: the necessary conditions and subtleties of agricultural technology. How to grow garlic large, vigorous, so that it can be stored for a long time

How to grow garlic? This culture is bred on almost every suburban area. Such a plant can even be propagated indoors on a balcony or on a windowsill in a pot. This is due to the fact that the fragrant spice is undemanding in care and grows rapidly.

Below you can get acquainted with the varieties and varieties of the plant, as well as tips on how to germinate and care for winter and spring garlic in various conditions.

Species and varieties

Released to date a large number of various varieties of garlic. But they are all divided into two types, namely:

• winter (planted in open ground with the arrival of autumn);
• spring (suitable for growing in spring).

Garlic is also divided into two large groups - arrowing and non-shooting varieties. In the first group, instead of seeds, single-toothed bulbous bulbs develop, which are used for planting crops in the ground. Often arrows let only winter types of garlic, and in spring this feature is extremely rare.

Large, large garlic can be grown from winter varieties. However, such a culture will be stored very little. Already in almost the last month of winter, the vegetable will begin to deteriorate.

As for summer garlic, the bulb heads don't grow as gigantic, but the shelf life can be up to 2 years.

In order to grow a good harvest of garlic without problems and hassle, experienced gardeners advise planting two types of vegetables in the garden at once. Despite the fact that the spring crop is in second place in terms of yield and head size, it is still stored longer than the winter crop. In terms of taste, both types of garlic are exactly the same.

Winter varieties of garlic are grown on a large industrial scale for sale. A spring vegetable is cultivated for long-term consumption.

Can be grown in the countryside different varieties vegetable culture. For example, most farmers grow Indian and Chinese garlic (the "solo" variety), and also grow the "rocambole" variety (such garlic is called "elephant" or giant).

If you want to grow garlic with a head the size of a fist, it is advisable to use large-fruited crop varieties. For such purposes, it is best to take "rocambole". It is worth noting that only when planting seeds for the winter, the size of the heads will be large. If you plant a vegetable as a spring crop, the bulbs will be small.

Many are interested in the question: “Is it profitable to grow garlic for sale?” Such a business, of course, does not require large expenses, however, it usually does not bring high profits either. The main thing is to regularly care for the spice, as well as plant high-quality seeds, which in the future will give a good harvest. In addition, farmers and enterprises engaged in the cultivation of vegetables in the open field argue that such a business can be accompanied by risk and organizational difficulties. This is due to the fact that high-quality seed is not cheap, cultivation also depends on climatic conditions. In this regard, farmers often grow garlic in a greenhouse.

How to grow winter garlic?

Winter garlic is characterized by a fairly high yield and large dimensions of the bulbs. However, this type of plant has a short shelf life.

This vegetable crop is great for salting with other vegetables, as well as for preservation.

Landing time

It is necessary to plant winter garlic in the fall, when the weather will be cold outside, but the soil should not yet freeze. Landing is carried out approximately from October to November.

Soil preparation

One of the secrets of how to grow large winter garlic in the open field is the proper preparation of the land for planting a crop. A few weeks before planting the spice in open ground, the substrate must be mixed with sand and ash. It is necessary to grow garlic from seeds in well-drained soil, since the vegetable crop does not like stagnant moisture, and also prefers soil with organic matter. In this case, the beds should be high.

Either compost or rotted manure must be added to the ground. To do this, a five-centimeter layer of fertilizer is distributed over the entire surface of the area, and then dug up.

Garlic prefers to grow in soil, the acidity of which will not exceed 6 or 7 units. If the soil is fed with compost or rotted manure immediately before winter sowing, the soil will not need to be fertilized until the spring months.

According to the rules of crop rotation, it is undesirable to plant a crop in the same area more than once every 5 years. However, often a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden does not make it possible to adhere to this rule. In this regard, the plant can be planted in the same area if an interval of 3 years is maintained, and the correct predecessor crops are selected.

You do not need to grow garlic where onions, potatoes or carrots grew, because after their cultivation, the soil loses a significant part of its nutrients. Also, do not plant a crop after nightshade, which can infect the plant with Fusarium. It is best to grow garlic after melon, legumes or cucumbers.

To properly grow garlic in the garden, consider the following:

1. At the place where the vegetable is bred, the sun should shine for at least 5 hours a day.
2. The acidity level of the soil should be either medium or weak.
3. It is not recommended to fertilize the land with fresh manure.
4. Seedlings must be distributed at a distance of fifteen centimeters from each other and immersed to a depth of seven centimeters.

Properly prepared soil will be the key to a large, plentiful harvest.

Planting material preparation

To grow a good and healthy winter garlic, seedlings must be processed before planting in the ground. In this way, the culture can be protected from bacterial, fungal and viral infections.

For the treatment of seeds (cloves), you can apply various chemical compositions, for example "Maxim" or "Fitolavin".

According to grandmother's advice, in order to obtain a quality harvest, the cloves must be dipped in a weak manganese solution for about 12 hours.

Immediately before planting, the seedlings can be immersed in a saline solution for 3 minutes (3 tablespoons of salt will be needed for 5 liters of water).

You can also treat garlic heads with a solution of copper sulfate (0.1 g of copper sulfate per 1 liter of water).

Reproduction methods

You can grow winter garlic by several proven methods. The following methods of culture propagation are considered the most effective: from bulbous cloves, bulbs and single-toothed bulbs. Which method is best, everyone chooses individually, based on personal tastes and preferences.

From bulb cloves

To grow garlic from onion cloves, on the day appointed for planting, it is necessary to make beds up to 2 meters wide. Seedlings need to be planted to a depth of 7 cm, while maintaining a distance of 20 cm from each other. The landing site must be sprinkled with a centimeter layer of humus.

For planting, you need to take cloves that weigh at least 4 grams. Garlic grown from cloves should have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, it is advisable to sow the crop from early October to mid-November.

Garlic should be sown not with a whole head, but with single cloves. Therefore, before planting, the bulb must be divided into slices.

From bulbs

To harvest a high-quality garlic crop, you need to sometimes change the planting material. For this purpose, the seeds of small air bulbs of garlic are used, which develop from the arrow peduncle. As soon as the twisted garlic arrow becomes even, it will be possible to remove the seeds of the air onions.

Growing garlic from arrows is done for the winter in the year of collecting seeds (bulbs), which must first be sorted and then dried for a month.

The planting time, as well as the procedure for preparing the land, are the same as when growing a winter vegetable with cloves. Before sowing in the soil, the bulbs must be immersed in a solution of wood ash (1-2 tablespoons of the substance per 100 ml of water) for twelve hours.

Planting seeds is carried out to a depth of up to 4 centimeters, while maintaining a distance between planting material of 6 centimeters.

After planting, the soil must be covered with a two-centimeter mulch layer. With the advent of spring, crops need to be looked after in the same way as during the planting of onion cloves.

Initially, only a single-tooth bulb (also called a set) grows from the bulbs, which can serve as planting material for a new crop of garlic.

It is very important to harvest on time, because ripe single-toothed bulbs can self-burrow. The time of harvest is determined by the state of the crop, namely: the leaves begin to turn yellow and slop down.

After 2 years, the bulbs will reach the standard size of a garlic head.

From single-tooth bulbs

To grow large single-toothed garlic, sevok needs to be planted in the soil in the spring, in mid-April. If you need to bring out ordinary garlic heads, then planting is carried out with the advent of the autumn months.

Before sowing planting material, you should pick up the brightest, even and largest heads. Seedlings should be sown in rows at a distance of twelve centimeters from each other. The distance between rows should reach 20 centimeters.

The planting time and the procedure for preparing the soil and material for sowing are the same as for propagating garlic with bulbs and cloves.

Winter care

After the seedlings are in the soil, they will need to be covered with a thick layer of leaves or straw. This will protect the heads of garlic from sudden changes in temperature during severe frosts until the thaw. As a result, the bulbs will not freeze.

Caring for a grown plant is quite simple. The main thing is to do all the procedures on time.

With the advent of spring, the mulch layer can be removed so that the earth can warm up with the sun's rays, thereby accelerating the growth of seedlings.

When the soil warms up and the first garlic shoots grow, a small layer of mulch should be returned to its original place to retain moisture and prevent the development of weeds.

If the ground is not too dry, there is no need to pour garlic abundantly. The less liquid will be used when watering, the richer the smell of the vegetable will be.

In the summer, winter and spring garlic give arrows that need to be disposed of, otherwise they will not allow the crop to grow normally.

Cultivation of spring garlic

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in the number of cloves and the size of the bulb. Such a vegetable is quite small and is not often used in cooking. However, spring crops are characterized by a long shelf life. This makes it possible to use the vegetable during the entire cold period of time.

Planting dates and co-propagation

It is best to grow spring garlic at the end of frost, that is, from mid-April.

In addition to meeting the deadlines for planting seedlings, you also need to choose the right neighbors in the garden, whom garlic will protect from infectious diseases and pests.

Clue! Lettuce leaves and spicy plants grow well next to vegetable crops. Remarkably, they can be planted on the same bed, alternating rows.

If you grow spring garlic near strawberry and strawberry bushes, the vegetable will scare away ants and aphids from berries, and will also contribute to high yields.

In no case should you grow summer (spring) garlic along with beans, cabbage and peas. The spicy plant slows down their development, resulting in low yields.

If garlic is grown in Siberia, then the material for sowing a month before planting in the ground should be placed in the refrigerator. And the day before planting, the seedlings will need to be removed from the cold, leaving at room temperature.

plant care

After planting, spring garlic does not need special care. It will be enough to moisten, loosen, feed and weed the soil from weeds in time to get a good and rich harvest.

To reduce the amount of watering, as well as protect the land from drying out on hot days, the beds with the plant must be mulched.

From May to July, the green mass begins to actively grow, so the plant needs to be watered four times a month. If there were heavy rains and the soil is too wet, then it is better not to water, so that there is no excess moisture in the soil. From the second half of summer, the number of waterings should be reduced.

During the growing season, the spring crop should be fed twice, namely:

1. For the first time, fertilizers are applied to the ground when the first green shoots are formed. For these purposes, a solution of wood ash is used (a couple of glasses of ash will be required for 12 liters of water). Nitrogen fertilizers can also be used.
2. The second time the plant is fed when the bulbs are formed. Here you can take either humus, or some mineral fertilizers.

At proper care spring garlic will bring many healthy and strong fruits.

Harvest and storage

Winter varieties of garlic begin to ripen by early August. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, you can start picking fruits. Cleaning should not be delayed, as the bulbs can dry out and begin to crumble. In this case, the shelf life of the product can be drastically reduced.

Spring garlic can be harvested from the end of summer, when the leaves turn yellow and droop down, and the bulbs are fully formed.

After the crop is harvested, it must first be shaken off the ground, and then dried for 1.5 weeks.

After drying, the roots and a little stem are cut off from the plant, leaving a 5 cm long stem for winter garlic, and 2 centimeters for spring garlic.

For planting material, it is advisable to take only large specimens.

Garlic storage conditions:

• temperature regime for winter plants - +4 degrees, and for spring - +20 degrees;
• humidity for all types of culture should be medium.

Many are interested in the question: “How much garlic can be grown on a hundred square meters?” The amount of crop harvested from 1 acre of land will be different. It all depends on which variety is cultivated in the field. For example, the “saved” garlic variety can bring up to 200 kg, and the “benefit” variety gives 400 kg per hundred square meters.

Growing at home

Garlic can be grown at home (on the balcony or on the windowsill). In winter, it is preferable to breed winter varieties of plants that can bring a good harvest of greens. If you want to grow garlic arrows, then it is better to plant a spring variety of a plant in the summer.

For growing in an apartment on a window or balcony, it is best to use garlic cloves, which can quickly bear fruit. To do this, take only strong, large and dense slices.

From sprouted garlic cloves, fruits can be grown much faster.

For growing garlic on greens, a winter variety of a plant is suitable, since it is able to give a powerful green mass. Remarkably, greens can be grown even from store-bought sprouted vegetables. In this case, the crop can be harvested in a short period of time. Of course, you can take unsprouted garlic, but then the green mass will have to wait a long time.

As for the soil, the soil from the street must first be disinfected, and then calcined in the oven. After that, sand and peat must be added to the ground.

If the soil is purchased in a store, then you need to take a universal substrate for seedlings, which must be fertilized.

The capacity for plant propagation should be spacious and up to 20 centimeters deep. Also, there should be a small rim at the top so that water does not spill over the edges when watering.

At home, garlic can be grown in a ceramic pot, a plastic box, or a glass container. In this case, the container must be placed either in a pallet or on a stand so that the liquid can drain freely.

Garlic cloves are introduced into pre-prepared pits to a depth of 3 centimeters. The distance between crops should be 5 centimeters. The soil should be slightly moist. As soon as the seeds are introduced into the soil, they need to be sprinkled with earth and watered. After that, it remains only to wait until the first shoots appear. The ripening period is approximately 21 days.

Seedlings need to be watered every three days. However, if the soil dries quickly, then the interval between waterings can be reduced.

You can feed the crop with both nitrogen and mineral fertilizers.

The optimum temperature for growing a plant at home is +20 degrees. Therefore, it is best to grow garlic on a glazed balcony.

Periodically, the ground near the seedlings needs to be loosened. As a result, the heads will be large and developed.

As you can see, growing garlic outdoors or at home is not so difficult. The main thing is to choose the right plant variety and planting time for planting material, and then it will be possible to get a high-quality and high yield.

Below is a video showing how to grow winter garlic.

The question of how to grow garlic with large heads is of interest to all summer residents. Healing properties this wonderful vegetable culture is widely known. It is tasty and nutritious, indispensable in the fight against garden pests, resistant to adverse external conditions. Therefore, it is difficult to imagine a summer cottage or garden plot without garlic. And most of his admirers hope to put large garlic heads in the winter bins.

Our article will reveal to you the secrets of growing large garlic from experienced gardeners.

Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages.. The choice of a gardener is due to an understanding of these features.

Winter varieties:

• winter well under snow at low temperatures (up to -40 ° on the surface);
• disease resistant;
• have a rich, spicy taste;
• have a high yield;
• bring large bulbs with neat, even teeth;
• harvesting in late July - early August;
• shelf life - up to 4 months.

Spring varieties:

• at the planting stage, they require preliminary germination;
• the yield is low in comparison with winter crops;
• large heads are obtained only from special varieties (for example, Gulliver);
• teeth different sizes;
• reaches maturity by the end of August;
• storage time - up to two years.

How to grow large winter garlic

Worries about the well-being of winter garlic begin in late autumn and last until the end of the summer season next year.

Site selection and preparation

Garlic loves the sun, so we choose an open area. Favorable for the development of the plant is the soil on which vegetables (except onions, potatoes, eggplants and garlic), legumes previously grew. If during harvesting in this area there were already signs of trouble (sick plants, for example), early sowing of mustard or calendula will heal the land.

Digging up the land for winter crops begins in early September two weeks before the intended landing. Garlic needs loose soil with neutral acidity. If it is clay or sandy, peat is added. Acidic soil is treated with a solution of ash (a glass per bucket of water) or lime (250 g per m²).

The next step is fertilizing. Experienced summer residents do not use fresh organic matter, which becomes a source of plant infection with a fungus. Humus from last year's cut oats, buckwheat, clover, alfalfa (bucket per m²) is considered an ideal top dressing for young bulbs wintering in the ground. From mineral fertilizers - superphosphate (30 g / m²) and potassium salt (20 g / m²).

Sowing preparation

Sowing campaign begins with the processing of planting material. Disinfect by placing the teeth for 45 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (10 g per 10 liters of water) or 15 minutes immersion in a solution of copper sulfate (1 g per 10 liters of water). All liquids are at room temperature. The procedure is completed by copious rinsing with running water.

Important! Protection against infectious and fungal diseases is provided to the plant only by thorough disinfection of planting material.

Features of planting garlic

In the case of winter crops, the issue of timely planting in the ground is at the head of the whole process.. A mistake is fraught with loss of up to 30% of the crop.

Choice of dates

Traditionally planting is done in September-October.. Planted garlic too early in prolonged warm weather will sprout and die from the first frost. The winner will be the gardener, who from year to year monitors the patterns of seasonal weather changes in his region.

Knowing the approximate timing of the onset of a stable cooling, calculate the most favorable moment for planting - three weeks before the expected frost. That is how much time the plant needs to strengthen the root system - the main condition for its well-being in the winter cold.

Landing Rules

Actions are aimed at creating the most comfortable wintering conditions for the plant:

• the beds are prepared high (up to 8 cm) with grooves at a distance of 25 cm from each other;
• large teeth are chosen for sowing;
• they are placed vertically in the grooves every 10-12 cm to a depth of at least 15 cm, sprinkled with earth;
• dry soil after planting watered;
• the soil is covered on top with straw, leaves, rotted sawdust (they will protect the crop from the cold until snow falls).

Important! To avoid freezing, it is necessary to deepen and securely insulate the sown garlic.

Planting large heads of garlic

Gardeners are increasingly using this unique method of sowing with whole heads. "Lazy", or bush, landing has a number of undeniable advantages before traditional sowing with individual cloves:

• saves the gardener time;
• beneficial in conditions of shortage of space in the summer cottage;
• suitable for point planting, for example, among other crops or around fruit trees.

The order of pre-sowing preparation is the same. Heads are carefully selected and disinfected in saline solution(2 tablespoons per 2 liters of water). Immediately before planting in the ground, carefully peel off the upper skin and cut off the roots sticking out from below. Immerse in the prepared hole and sprinkle with earth.

Such garlic grows in a bush, under which several young heads ripen at once.. It is believed that these heads are predominantly small. However, practice does not confirm this opinion. Country experimenters confidently demonstrate large garlic grown in such an unusual way.

Growing technology

Sprout care involves creating a smart watering system, soil fertilization and pest control.

Proper watering and fertilizing

As soon as the land dries up from the spring floods, the irrigation campaign begins.. The main criterion that determines the frequency of irrigation is the condition of the soil. It must not be dry. Hence the approximate frequency: 2-3 times a week during the dry season. It is better to water with water warmed up in the sun. Subsequent weeding solves two problems at once: it rids the bed of weeds and provides oxygen access to the roots.

Important! Stop watering a month before harvest.

Regular moisturizing and top dressing are especially relevant during the period of active plant growth.. Fertilizers for winter crops begin in early spring, as soon as the melted snow melts. Monthly treatment with a solution of urea (200 g / 10 l of water) will provide the plant with the necessary nutrients for the entire ripening period. Poor soils are enriched twice a month with potassium sulfate or ammonium nitrate (50 g / m²).

Important! Fertilizer is better absorbed if you combine top dressing with watering.

Little secrets of an experienced gardener

Some tips:

1. Garlic does not tolerate both drought and waterlogging. It is difficult for a novice summer resident to find a middle ground. The solution to the problem in the mulching of the beds. Sawdust, straw, shavings, expanded clay, laid at the base of the plants, will protect the soil from excessive drying and provide a comfortable level of humidity. And you will be relieved of the need to frequently water and loosen the earth.
2. The increase in the size of the garlic heads contributes regular shortening of growing arrows up to 5 cm from the surface. Be vigilant, and in the fall you will harvest large garlic.

Diseases and pests

The appearance of a gray powdery coating on the stem and leaves indicates a fungal disease.. White, cervical, bacterial rot, downy mildew are introduced into plant tissues and destroy them. Effective against these diseases only preventive measures: treatment of planting material with septic tanks.

Significantly reduces the risk of infection by adding superphosphate to the soil in early spring(100 g per 10 liters of water). Diseased plants are removed from the garden as soon as possible and burned. And healthy ones are treated with fungicides or sprayed with a solution of soda ash and grated laundry soap (40 g of each per 10 liters of water).

Stem nematode, weevil, medvedka, onion fly and aphids more often than other insects harm young shoots of garlic. The nematode feeds on the juices of the plant and slows down its growth: the leaves curl, the roots rot. Its danger is enhanced by the ability to stay in the soil in a state of suspended animation for many years, waiting for favorable conditions.

In this case tillage of the soil before planting with a solution of table salt will help(20 g / 3 l of water per m²). The onion fly gnaws the garlic cloves from the inside. Pollination with a mixture of ash (100 g), ground pepper and tobacco (5 g each) helps against the pest.

Important! Crushed fresh mint leaves scattered between the rows are a universal remedy for repelling most pests.

Harvest and storage

Timely removal from the beds is extremely important for garlic: too early or late harvesting will equally negatively affect the quality and shelf life of the crop.

The following signs of culture maturity serve as a guideline:

• calendar (late July - early August);
• duration of the vegetative period (100-110 days from germination);
• yellowed lower leaves creeping along the ground.

Important! Ripened air bulbs (bulbs) are considered the most reliable guide to start the harvesting campaign.

The next step is preparing for storage.. To protect against root mites, heads cleaned from the ground and tops are dried for 7-10 days in the open air or in a warm, well-ventilated room. Stored garlic needs regular ventilation. Therefore, boxes or boxes with openings, as well as nets, are preferable as packaging.

Important! The largest heads will serve as excellent seed for next year's winter crops.

Features of growing large spring garlic

If winter garlic is genetically disposed to bear large fruits, then spring crop requires adjustments in the technology of its cultivation:

Popular questions

How to choose slices for planting?

In order for the culture to please with a plentiful and high-quality harvest, for sowing, only bulbs with large slices are selected. Sick, small, fused are subject to culling.

What is the difference between spring and winter garlic?

It is important to know the features that distinguish the seed material of winter and spring crops. The heads of winter garlic have an even number of cloves of the same size, which are grouped around the stem. Spring varieties are distinguished by an arbitrary number of slices of different sizes and the absence of a stem.

What are the arrows for?

It is believed that systematic shortening of the ground part up to 5 cm enhances the nutrition of the bulb and contributes to the formation of larger heads.

A few more tips from experienced gardeners:

1. Responsible approach to variety selection: seed material from a finely toothed variety will not bring the desired result.
2. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation: prepare the site in advance, plant in the ground in a timely manner and harvest, water, fertilize and mulch.
3. Growing garlic in one area no more three seasons in a row, otherwise the culture will begin to degenerate.
4. Planting material update every three years.
5. Systematic arrow clipping provide the bulbs with additional nutrients.

Conclusion

Successful cultivation of any horticultural crop requires an understanding of its unique characteristics. Right choice varieties, skillful preparation land plot before planting and knowing all the subtleties of caring for a ripening plant, you can get results in accordance with your expectations.

But sometimes this is not enough. The observant experimenter is always one step ahead of his more conservative dacha neighbors. The use of the latest agricultural achievements in combination with existing experience can work wonders. And the recommendations of experienced gardeners will help you enjoy the abundant harvest of large garlic in your summer cottage from year to year.

Winter garlic differs from spring garlic in planting time and early ripening. Intensive spring growth allows the culture to quickly form large garlic heads, which gardeners use for current needs. Learn how to properly plant and grow winter garlic.

Features of winter garlic

The culture is planted in open ground in autumn. Having formed a root mass in the autumn period, and having safely overwintered, the plant grows rapidly in the spring. The development of winter crops is facilitated by moisture stored after snowmelt.

Biological and agrotechnical features of winter garlic:

• high adaptability to various climatic conditions;
• high winter hardiness;
• roots germinate at 0 °C, and at 3-5 °C they grow intensively;
• exactingness to moisture, especially during the period of leaf growth;
• root length - 10-20 cm;
• increased demands on soil fertility, the best option is light, slightly acidic and well-fertilized soils, sandy or loamy;
• the desired acidity of the soil is neutral or close to it;
• garlic cannot be grown in one place for years, repeatedly - in the same place, it can be planted only after 3-4 years.

Winter garlic is a bulbous plant, in which both the leaves and the head repel pests - slugs, caterpillars, drillers and even moles.

Which variety of winter garlic to choose?

The main disadvantage of winter garlic is poor keeping quality. Among the abundance of winter varieties, gardeners have long identified several priority ones. The choice of variety mainly depends on the yield, size and taste of the heads. Table 1 - popular varieties of winter garlic.

Table 1

Name	Short description
	Shoots arrows. The number of teeth in the head is from 6 to 13 pieces. Pinkish husk. High frost resistance.
Local Danilovsky	Not demanding variety. The head has 6 to 11 cloves.
Gribovskiy 60	Shoots arrows. Zubkov in the bulb - up to 11 pieces. The teeth are large. Early variety. The taste is spicy.
Otradnensky	It tolerates low temperatures well. Great taste. Arrows need to be cut off in time so as not to lose the crop. The husk is pink, with a purple tint. There are 4-6 teeth in the head.
Jubilee Gribovsky	Medium late variety. Head weight - up to 80 g. Purple husk. One head consists of 10-12 teeth. Shoots arrows.
Anniversary 07	Mid-season high-yielding variety. The heads are flat-rounded, white. Weight - 80 g.

You can read more about these and other varieties of winter garlic at.

Landing time

Winter garlic is planted in late autumn. This must be done before the slush and cold weather. Planting dates depend on the specific climatic conditions of the region, their range is mid-September-end of October. In the southern regions, you can plant garlic even in November, but in the north it is better to complete planting work early - in early autumn.

In order not to make a mistake with the landing, be guided by the local climate. Find out when stable frosts occur on the ground. It is necessary to plant garlic 3-4 weeks before this period. For the time remaining before frost, planting material - teeth or bulbs, take root, but do not germinate.

The gardener tells in detail about growing winter garlic in his video below:

Location selection

Winter garlic is grown in all regions of the Russian Federation, including in the north. The culture is frost-resistant, therefore it safely survives winter temperatures.

Features of choosing a site for winter garlic:

• Good illumination.
• Waterlogged and swampy soils are not suitable - garlic rots on them. Preference is given to elevations - so that the site is not flooded with melt or rainwater.
• Favorable predecessors are legumes, pumpkin, greens.
• The best soils are fertile sandy loams and loams.
• The best neighbors are berry crops. Garlic is planted near raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, and also near flowers - it goes well with roses, tulips, daffodils, gladioli.

Crop rotation rules

So that winter garlic does not get sick and gives high yields, consider the crop rotation rules:

• The best predecessors are green manure. Garlic is recommended to be planted after beans, oats, buckwheat, alfalfa, clover, mustard, legumes. From vegetables, cabbage, early potatoes, tomatoes, beets, peppers, carrots are considered favorable predecessors. Areas where pumpkin crops grew are considered favorable for growth.
• Crops from the onion family are considered unfavorable predecessors, suffering from the same diseases as winter garlic. These, in addition to onions and garlic, also include bulbous flowers.

Preparation for planting winter garlic

The agrotechnical cycle of growing winter garlic begins with the preparation of beds and planting material.

Beds for garlic

The procedure for preparing the beds:

• The beds are prepared a month and a half before planting or in the summer.
• If the soil is heavy, clayey, river sand, sawdust and compost are added to it. Ultra-light sandy soils, on the contrary, require weighting - clay soil, compost and humus are added to them. If soils with hyperacidity, then they are alkalized in advance, introducing fluff-lime, bone or dolomite flour.
• It is forbidden to make fresh organic matter - it contains a lot of ammonia. Nitrogen, stimulating the growth of leaves, will condemn the garlic to freezing. It is best to fertilize the beds with peat compost or rotted mullein. For 1 sq. m contribute 1-4 buckets. The soil is dug up together with organic fertilizers to the depth of a shovel bayonet.
• Plantings are fertilized with superphosphate (30-40 g per 1 sq. M) and potassium salt (10-25 g per 1 sq. M). Instead of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, soot or ash will fit - 0.5-1 l per 1 sq. m beds.

The beds for winter garlic are located on the sunny side, they should be oriented from north to south. Before garlic is planted, the soil in the dug-up beds must settle.

planting material

First of all, the planting material is hardened. To do this, the selected heads are kept for 2-3 weeks in a cool place (3-5 ° C). The further process of preparing planting material is determined by its type. There are two options for planting winter garlic:

• Teeth. Garlic is disassembled into cloves, and each one is carefully examined. When dividing the heads into teeth, it is important not to damage the husk. All small, diseased and damaged teeth are discarded. Teeth deformed and with cracks on the bottom are not suitable. The selected material is disinfected:
  • In ash lye. To prepare a solution of 400 g of ash, pour 2 liters of water. The solution is boiled for half an hour, cooled and the teeth are kept in it for 2 hours.
  • In a solution of potassium permanganate (medium pink color) or copper sulfate 1%. Holding time - 15 minutes.
• Bulbs. They do not require treatment before planting - they do not contain any infections or pest larvae.

For planting take teeth with a diameter of at least 10 mm.

Landing step by step instructions

Hardened and disinfected teeth are planted in this order:

• The beds are loosened with a rake and furrows are made. The distance between adjacent furrows is 20-25 cm. The depth is 6-8 cm.
• The teeth in the grooves are placed at intervals of 6-8 cm. They are placed vertically - bottom down or on their side. Bulbs are planted more densely - only 15 cm are left between the furrows, and 2-3 cm between the bulbs themselves. They are deepened by 3-5 cm.
• The planting is watered and sprinkled with a layer of mulch. The thickness of compost, rotten straw, peat, humus or sawdust is 3-4 cm. Mulching enriches the soil with humus, mineral salts, and additionally insulates the fit. Read more about soil mulching.
• In areas with winter temperatures below minus 25 ° C, it is advisable to re-insulate the plantings - put spruce branches or branches on top. Such a shelter will contribute to the accumulation of snow, which will provide additional insulation.

Care and cultivation

Care for winter garlic begins in early spring and lasts until harvest. In the northern regions, garlic ripens in the last decade of July, in others - earlier.

spring

Caring for winter garlic in spring:

• As soon as the snow melts, spruce branches or branches - if they were used as a shelter, are removed. And the layer of fine mulch, organic matter, does not need to be removed - soon green sprouts will appear from under it. Winter garlic is the first green in the garden. Sprouts break through in March-April.
• When greens appeared, garlic is fertilized with nitrogen. Two weeks after germination, plantings are watered with a solution of urea, ammonium nitrate or nitroammophos (10 l - 20 g). After 2 weeks - re-feeding.
• During the growing season, the beds are regularly weeded and loosened to a depth of 3 cm.
• Plantings are watered every 5-7 days.

In summer

Care for winter garlic continues in the summer:

• In June, a third top dressing is carried out to support the plants during the formation of heads. Phosphorus and potassium are introduced, watering the beds with an ash solution. They prepare it by insisting a glass of ash in a bucket of water for three days. You can also add a solution of potassium monophosphate (per 10 l - 20 g), superphosphate (per 10 l - 25 g) or potassium nitrate (per 10 l - 15 g).
• Garlic plantations continue to be watered in summer with the same frequency as in spring. In hot weather, the frequency of watering increases. Stop watering three weeks before harvest.
• After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil.
• When the arrows reach 15 cm in length - in the arrowing varieties of garlic, they are broken out. This is necessary to prevent waste. nutrients on flower stalks.

What pests can you encounter?

Most dangerous diseases winter garlic - rot and rust. Bacterial infections usually infect garlic during storage, and then penetrate the soil with planting material. Table 2 presents common diseases of winter garlic and methods of dealing with them.

table 2

Pests/Diseases	Harm/Symptoms	How to fight?
Penicillary rot of the donuts	Leaves turn yellow and then die.	With penicillosis, cleaning is carried out during the full readiness of garlic. When pruning, the neck is left longer - about 10 cm. The heads dry well. Store at humidity not more than 75%. Note! Garlic leaves may turn yellow for other reasons, which are discussed. Then the methods of dealing with this phenomenon will be different.
Rust	Rusty spots appear on the leaves.	Planting is sprayed with fungicides - Oxyhom 0.4%, Ridomil 0.2% or others. Repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 1-2 weeks.
downy mildew	Gray spots appear on shoots and inflorescences.	The plant should be fed on time. For prevention, calendula is planted near the beds. Treatment with Ridomil.
stem nematode	Filamentous worms 1.5 mm long feed on plant sap. Capable of completely destroying the culture. Dashes appear on the leaves, feathers dry and die, and the smell of rot appears.	Spray Calypso according to the instructions for the drug.
onion fly	Fly larvae damage garlic feathers, growth and yield slow down.	Sprayed with a solution of shag (250 g) and hot pepper (1 tablespoon). Ingredients pour 2 liters of hot water. Insist 3 days. After straining, bring to 10 liters, and pour in 30 g of liquid soap.

Cleaning and storage

To get healthy and long-lasting garlic, it is important to harvest on time. It is worth overexposure of the heads in the ground, and they will lose their commercial qualities - the integumentary scales will begin to crack.

Harvest order:

• Start digging up the crop as soon as the lower leaves turn yellow, and the tops fall en masse. Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Undermining and pulling out of the ground.
• Do not remove the dug garlic immediately - it should lie down on the beds for several days to dry under the sun. The garlic dries along with the stem. If it rains, you will have to move the crop under a canopy, and there it will dry for about 5 days.
• Cut the stems off dried garlic. The length of the stumps is 4-7 cm. Dry the heads in a well-ventilated area or under a canopy.

If you store garlic in braids, then do not cut the stems. If in bunches, leave a stem length of 20 cm.

To determine when the garlic is ripe, leave a couple of garlic arrows in the arrow varieties. When cracks appear on the shell of spherical inflorescences, you can safely pull out the garlic.

Garlic, properly harvested and dried, is well stored - does not deteriorate, does not rot. It can be kept under a canopy until the very cold, then it is transferred to baskets. The optimum storage temperature is 2-4°C.

Garlic is grown in almost every suburban area. But not everyone knows the intricacies of growing technology. The quality and quantity of the harvested crop directly depends on this. It is also important to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic, because this directly affects the planting time.

Winter garlic is characterized by high yield and large size. The disadvantages of winter garlic include a short shelf life.

Winter garlic is suitable for preservation or pickling with various vegetables.

Landing dates

Garlic is planted in the fall, after the first frosts come, but before the soil freezes. As a rule, this is the beginning of October - the middle of November.

As planting material, it is better to buy the largest garlic bulbs. Over time, this will give its own supply of garlic.

Soil preparation and crop rotation

To prepare the soil for planting winter garlic, you need to add ash and sand to the soil a few weeks before planting. Garlic grows best in well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate stagnant moisture and prefers soil with a high organic content. A raised bed is the perfect place to grow garlic.

The soil must be fertilized with rotted manure or high-quality compost. To do this, scatter a layer of compost 3–5 centimeters thick over the entire planting area and dig it up to a depth of half the shovel bayonet. Like most garden crops, garlic grows best when the soil pH is between 6 and 7. If you fertilize the soil with rotted manure or compost before winter planting, no further fertilization is needed until spring.

Crop rotation rules prohibit planting garlic in the same place more than once every five years. But often the small size of the plot does not allow strict adherence to this rule. Therefore, it is quite possible to return the garlic to its former place of cultivation, provided that the interval of 2 - 3 years is maintained and the correct predecessor plants are selected.

It is not recommended to plant it after onions, potatoes, carrots and other root crops, since their cultivation significantly impoverishes the soil. Not the best precursors of garlic are nightshade cultures, which can infect it with Fusarium. And after legumes, cauliflower, cucumbers, zucchini and melons, garlic will feel good and delight with a wonderful harvest.

When landing, consider:

• A bed with garlic should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day;
• Soil pH should be neutral to slightly acidic (6-7);
• Do not use fresh manure to fertilize the soil;
• Planting material should be placed at a distance of 15 centimeters from each other, with a depth of 5-7 centimeters.

Planting material preparation

The additional processing of cloves before planting has a positive effect on the quality of the garlic crop. This serves as a prophylaxis against viral, fungal and bacterial diseases.

To process planting material, you can use special preparations sold in gardening stores (Fitolavin, Fitosporin-M, Maxim).

The use of improvised means will be no less effective. For example, you can soak your teeth in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10 to 12 hours.

You can also soak the planting material in a saline solution for 3 minutes before planting. To prepare the solution, you will need 3 tablespoons of table salt mixed with 5 liters of water.

Good results are obtained by treating the head of garlic with a solution of copper sulfate.

How to plant garlic

Planting with teeth (lateral buds) of bulbs

On the day of planting, it is necessary to form beds with a width of 1 to 2 meters. The teeth are planted at a distance of 15 - 20 centimeters from each other and deepen from five to seven centimeters. The weight of the teeth must be at least 4 grams. The landing site is sprinkled with humus per centimeter from above.

Garlic should take root before the onset of cold weather. therefore best time planting will be the period from early October to mid-November.

Garlic can not be planted with a whole head. Before planting, the head is divided into single teeth.

Planting with air bulbs (bulbs)

To obtain a good harvest of garlic, planting material is recommended to be updated periodically. At the same time, small aerial garlic bulbs obtained from the peduncle, the arrows of a well-developed plant, are used as seeds. When the twisted garlic arrow straightens out, it's time to collect the seeds of the air bulbs.

They are planted for the winter in the year of collection, after sorting and drying for a month.

The planting time and soil preparation process is the same as when planting winter garlic with cloves. Before sowing, air bulbs are soaked in a solution of wood ash for at least 12 hours. Seeds are planted at a distance of 4 - 6 centimeters from each other and deepened from three to four centimeters.

The covering layer of mulch should be about 2 centimeters. Spring care for plants coincides with care when planting teeth.

In the first year, a single-tooth bulb (sevok) grows from air bulbs, which then will serve as a good updated planting material. At the same time, timely harvesting is very important, since ripened single-toothed bulbs are prone to self-deepening. Harvesting time can be determined by the state of the plant - the leaves begin to turn yellow and droop down.

After two years, the small air bulbs will grow into standard size bulbs.

Planting with single-toothed bulbs (sevkom)

If it is necessary to get very large single-toothed bulbs, sets of single-toothed bulbs are planted in spring, in the second decade of April.

To obtain ordinary heads of garlic, the sowing is planted in the fall.

Before sowing, the largest, brightest and most even bulbs are selected. Seedlings should be planted in rows at a distance of 10 - 12 centimeters from each other and 20 centimeters between rows. Pre-sowing soil preparation, site selection, and planting dates are the same as for air bulbs and cloves - from early October to mid-November.

Preparing for winter

After planting in the ground, it is necessary to cover the garlic with mulch from a thick layer of straw or leaves. This will act as an insulator, protecting the bulbs from the hard freeze to thaw cycle, thus preventing the bulbs from freezing.

Care in spring and summer

In the spring, you can move the mulch aside to warm the soil with natural sunlight and promote growth. Once the soil has warmed up and small green shoots have started to appear, some of the mulch should be put back in place to keep weeds down and retain moisture.

Garlic does not require abundant watering unless the soil is very dry. The less water when watering, the more concentrated the aroma of garlic.

In summer, spring and winter garlic produces arrows that need to be removed, as they do not allow you to get a good harvest.

Growing spring garlic

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in size and number of cloves. It is smaller and less convenient for cooking. Its advantage is a longer shelf life, which allows you to use garlic throughout the cold season.

Landing dates

Spring garlic is planted after the end of frost, towards the end of April, starting from the second decade.

co-cultivation

In addition to observing the rules of crop rotation, it is equally important to choose good neighbors in the garden. Neighboring plants will help resist infectious diseases and protect from pests.

Good neighbors of garlic will be all kinds of salads, as well as spicy crops. They can be planted on the same bed in alternating rows.

Garlic has a beneficial effect on the growth of nightshade - it repels the Colorado potato beetle and minimizes the harm of late blight. Garlic, planted next to strawberry or strawberry bushes, increases their productivity and saves from aphids and ants.

You can not plant garlic next to cabbage, peas and legumes. This will slow down their development and minimize the yield.

Spring Garlic Care

Caring for spring garlic consists in timely top dressing, regular watering, weeding from weeds and loosening the soil.

Mulching your garden bed with garlic reduces watering and keeps the soil from drying out in the heat.

Watering and feeding garlic

The most active growth of the green mass of garlic begins in May and lasts until mid-July. During this period, it is required to water the garlic beds 3-4 times a month. In case of heavy rains and high soil moisture, watering should not be done, since an excess of moisture leads to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases of the bulbs and yellowing of the leaves. In the second half of summer, watering should be significantly reduced, or completely stopped.

Top dressing should be carried out 2 times during the growing season. The first feeding is carried out immediately after the appearance of green shoots. To prepare a solution, 2 cups of wood ash are added to 10 - 12 liters of water. You can also feed the plants with any nitrogen fertilizers. The second dressing is carried out at the beginning of the formation of bulbs. For the second top dressing, humus or any mineral fertilizers are used.

Diseases and pests of garlic

To harvest a high yield of garlic, you must follow all the rules of planting, crop rotation, care and prevention of plant diseases.

Fungal diseases of garlic include downy mildew, black mold, black neck rot, rust, green mold, black moldy rot, white rot.

Garlic bulbs can be affected by the fungus even during storage. Affected fruits infect healthy ones. The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of moist dark spots and lethargy of the bulbs. On the surface of the heads, a white coating is noticeable, which turns green over time. Further development of the disease leads to a hollow bulb. Contributes to the disease of the heads of garlic fever and humidity in the storage room.

Exist fungal diseases, capable of infecting garlic not only during storage, but also in the beds.

The symptoms of the disease are:

• rapid yellowing and drying of the leaves from top to bottom;
• education white plaque at the base of the bush.

Gradually, the plant dies.

Prevention of fungal diseases will be the observance of crop rotation, the correct predecessor plants, the periodic renewal of planting material, by collecting and planting air bulbs.

To combat an already existing disease, fungicides are used - chemicals designed to treat seeds and fight plant fungus. The fungicide concentrate is toxic to both humans and animals.

If preference is given to an environmentally friendly product and there is no desire to treat plants with chemicals, apply folk remedies.

You can treat the plants with an infusion of calendula and yarrow. To do this, 50 grams of chopped herbs are poured into 1 liter of hot water. Insist for seven days. Before spraying, the infusion is diluted in water at the rate of 1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water. The soil is cultivated before sowing and again, during the period of abundant development of green mass. This treatment will be effective against white rot.

No less problems are caused by pests of bulbous crops. Among the most common pests of garlic are the onion fly, onion hoverfly, onion whetstone, onion thrips, onion secretive proboscis, onion moths, onion stem nematode, root mites, four-legged garlic mite.

To save the crop, you need to take timely measures when the first signs of pests appear. Plants are recommended to be treated with well-established insecticides (chemical preparations designed to control harmful insects), such as Actellik, Neoron, Dimethoat-400, Calypso and others. Each tool comes with detailed instructions by application.

It is important to know, when breeding bees in a summer cottage, that the use of insecticides can be detrimental to insects.

If you do not want to use chemicals, then you can use folk methods pest control. Among them, one can single out the treatment of plants with infusion of shag - add 250 grams of shag and 1 tablespoon of bitter red pepper to 2 liters of hot water. Insist 3 days. Then strain the tincture and dilute in 10 liters of water, adding 30 grams of liquid soap. This treatment will save the garlic from the onion fly.

Storage of garlic

A cellar or basement is best for storage.

Winter garlic is stored in a cool room. The temperature should be from +2 to +4 degrees Celsius and the air humidity should not exceed 70 percent. The shelf life is 3 to 4 months.

Spring garlic is stored in a warm room at an air temperature of +16 to +20 degrees Celsius and humidity not higher than 70 percent. Shelf life is 5 to 7 months.

Before storing garlic, you need to take care of processing the storage in advance. One of the treatment methods is the fumigation of the premises with sulfur dioxide. It is also necessary to remove all plant residues from last year's food stocks. This will help to avoid infection of the bulbs during storage.

Garlic storage area should be clean and dry with good ventilation. Boxes, thick cardboard boxes, baskets with frequent weaving, old nylon stockings, fabric bags, that is, any breathable material or container, are used as storage containers.

Before laying the garlic in a container, it is important to sort out the bulbs, removing those damaged during digging. Peel off the ground and leave in the garden to dry or lay out under a canopy for 4 to 5 days. Then cut off the root and stem, leaving a stick, about 10 - 12 centimeters long.

During storage, periodically inspect the bulbs, selecting spoiled ones. Make sure that moisture does not get into the storage area.

In the absence of a special storage place, garlic is recommended to be placed in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

In no case should you put the heads of garlic in a plastic bag, as it will begin to deteriorate quickly. It is better to place the garlic in a paper bag and put it in the refrigerator.

For storage in an apartment, take a plywood box and place garlic in it, sprinkling layers with dry sawdust. Glass jars are also suitable as containers. Garlic in this case is sprinkled with salt, the jars are left open.

Paraffin from a melted candle allows you to extend the shelf life of garlic. To do this, soak each bulb in hot paraffin. This will create a conservation effect.

The main criteria for storing garlic:

1. room temperature;
2. Air humidity;
3. Room pretreatment.

If it is required to store garlic not as a planting material, but for the purpose of use in food, then pickling, canning and salting are widely used.

In conclusion, it can be noted that garlic is not only useful product for a person, but also a good opportunity to receive monetary profit without making large expenditures of material and labor resources.

Growing this plant does not require a large area of ​​land, and already in the first year, subject to the cultivation technology, you can get a good harvest.

In city apartments, it is rare to see a person who grows garlic in the house. Gardeners are more accustomed to planting onions or parsley on the windowsill, although planting garlic is no more difficult to care for than green onions.

In addition, its feathers contain a large amount of useful substances. They give a piquant taste to any salad or meat dish, are indispensable for colds. Young greens have a mild, delicate taste. It is not as spicy as a garlic head, but also very fragrant.

At home, garlic is grown mainly for herbs. You can collect them within 1 month after planting. It is planted both in separate pots and among other plants as a compactor.

Experienced people grow it in several containers. In this case, you can enjoy the greenery continuously.

If there is a goal to grow not only greens, but also the heads themselves, feathers must be trimmed regularly. Arrows must not be allowed to grow. In the house, the heads of garlic grow small, with a small number of cloves. To obtain them, you need to spend a lot of time - at least 8 months.

Variety selection

For planting indoors in autumn, you need to choose winter varieties of garlic, but it is also allowed to plant spring varieties. If the hostess began to sprout a head of garlic, it can be planted in the ground. It is recommended to take zoned varieties as seed material. The most famous:

• Polesky;
• Otradnensky;
• Anniversary;
• Scythian;
• Sochi-56;
• Garkau;
• Kharkov.

Selection of planting material

The easiest way to grow garlic is from sprouted cloves. They sprout within a week after planting, unsprouted after 2 weeks.

It is possible to grow garlic from seeds. However, this method is labor intensive and takes a lot of time and effort. You should not choose this option for getting room greens.

The cloves for planting should be healthy, with no signs of mold, rot, or damage. Soft, yellowed specimens for landing are also not suitable.

Before planting, it is recommended to treat them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Soil preparation for planting

Land from the garden is suitable for planting. She must be fertile. This culture does not like loamy soil. If the owners decide to make the soil mixture themselves, it should include:

• land from the site;
• humus;
• sand;
• charcoal.

The second option for preparing the soil mixture is to mix the earth from the garden, peat, and humus in equal quantities.

You can also buy universal soil for indoor plants or for seedlings in the store. During planting, it is recommended to add special fertilizers for onions, garlic or wood ash to it.

Before planting, any soil must be processed by known methods:

• potassium permanganate solution;
• calcination in the oven, microwave, etc.

Tank preparation

Any container with a drainage hole is suitable for planting garlic: a flower pot, a box, a container, etc. Its depth should be 15-20 cm.

Before landing on the bottom, it is necessary to fill up a layer of drainage:

• broken brick;
• pebbles;
• expanded clay;
• small pebbles, etc.

The container can be made of any material: wood, plastic, glass, ceramics, etc.

Where to place garlic pots?

Garlic containers are placed in a sunny place. The room should be pretty cool. Best Places for seedlings:

• closed balcony;
• window sill on the south side;
• loggia;
• veranda, etc.

Planting garlic in the ground

When growing in the ground, garlic cloves are taken and planted to a depth of 2-3 cm with the pointed part up. The distance between them should be 4-5 cm. The soil is slightly moistened in advance. A clove can be planted next to another houseplant.

Winter varieties are planted in autumn. During the spring planting of spring crops, they are germinated in advance. To do this, you can take a small amount of cotton, wet it and leave the cloves to germinate on it for several days.

Getting garlic feathers in water

Garlic greens can be obtained without the use of soil. To do this, the slices need to be cleaned and put in a shallow container. Pour into half of the vessel. Feathers can be cut for the first time after 3 weeks, then after 2. Harvest can be obtained 3 times, then the clove must be replaced with a new one.

How to grow garlic hydroponically

Growing vegetables hydroponically is another method of obtaining crops without the use of soil. This is a new way, as a substrate here can serve:

• mineral wool;
• perlite;
• peat;
• vermiculite;
• foam rubber;
• coconut fiber;
• small expanded clay;
• gravel;
• sphagnum moss, etc.

Before use, these materials must be thoroughly rinsed with boiled water.

The whole system consists in the fact that the plant is planted on the substrate and fed with a special liquid. There is special equipment for this, but experienced lovers of greens and vegetables have learned how to do it on their own.

• You need to take 2 containers. One of them must be larger than the other. Holes are made on the walls and bottom of the smaller pot. Then the smaller pot is filled with the substrate, the plant is planted in it.
• A large container should be opaque, fit a smaller pot. A special solution is poured into it.
• Place the pot with the substrate inside the container with the solution. The substrate should be immersed in the liquid by 1-2 cm.
• An aquarium air compressor is placed at the bottom of a large pot.

Vermiculite is considered one of the popular substrates for garlic.

In the video, the author shows his method of planting garlic in the ground for further cultivation on the windowsill.

Caring for garlic on the windowsill

It is not difficult to take care of planting garlic in an apartment, since this culture is unpretentious. It grows like a houseplant. All care comes down to:

• watering;
• ensuring optimal temperature;
• top dressing.

Arrows on the plant must be removed in a timely manner. They can also be eaten. In the house, garlic is not affected by pests, and it does not get sick.

Air temperature

At an air temperature of 0-15°C, small bulbs may form. If garlic is grown for greenery, it should be kept on a windowsill, balcony, where the air temperature will be at least 20 ° C.

Watering

After planting, garlic requires well-moistened soil. But you can't overflow them. Watering should not be frequent, but plentiful. Moisturize as the earth dries out (depending on the temperature in the room) with settled water at room temperature no more than 1 time in 2-3 days.

Lighting

Light day for garlic should last at least 8 hours. For its growth, it is better to choose a well-lit part of the house. With insufficient sunlight, it is required to illuminate with fluorescent lamps. They are installed at a height of 50 cm from the plants.

top dressing

Garlic plantings need nitrogen the most. Fertilizers are applied only under the root. You can feed with:

• sticks;
• liquid preparations;
• granules.

In the city, in the absence of organic matter, complex mineral fertilizers are used. If possible, you can also use mullein, chicken manure or wood ash.

Harvesting

The greens are cut when the sprouts grow to 15-20 cm. For this, sharp scissors are used. They reach this size in a month.

Feathers should be used immediately after cutting. So they will give all their flavor to the dish, preserving the vitamins.

If the garlic was planted not only for the sake of greenery, the bulbs can be dug up after 8-10 months. Then you need to put them in a dry, cool place to dry for 1 week.

Pros of growing homemade garlic chives

Garlic has long been famous for its antibacterial properties. Its greens, like the head itself, contain a large amount of phytoncides, which make it a natural antibiotic.

Garlic cloves can be added to any dish. They go well with any side dish. It is useful to add it to salads, meat, fried potatoes, etc.

Both an experienced gardener and a beginner can handle planting garlic. By planting it, you can diversify your diet with a new type of greenery. Growing garlic to produce heads is impractical. It is better to leave this option for giving, but growing its feathers at home is quite easy.